Schlossgut Diel Dorsheimer Goldloch Riesling Auslese, Nahe, Germany

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The 2007 Dorsheimer Goldloch Riesling Auslese conveys its botrytis in a less obvious way than its Pittermanchen counterpart, with hints of white truffle mingling with honey and apricot preserves. As with most of Diel’s sweet wines, this is unabashedly so, but notes of chalk, salt, and toasted brioche add interest and the overall effect is lusciously refreshing. Not only can one expect a quarter century of pleasure from this, I suspect it will always be more elegant and enjoyable than the Pittermanchen. With the 2007 vintage – one Armin Diel compares with his superbly successful 2004s – daughter Caroline Diel has joined Christoph Friedrich in guiding vineyard and cellar operations here. (The 2008 vintage sees her in the estate’s leading role.) Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300