Diel’s 2006 Dorsheimer Goldloch Auslese displays honeyed, malted, caramelized concentration of orchard fruits tinged with vanilla and shot through with bright citricity and pungent zestiness. Enormously concentrated and sweet, viscous and dense despite the potentially leavening effect of its acids (and despite the uncanny weightlessness displayed by the corresponding Spatlese) this is rather covered by sheer sweetness as well as highlighting the bitter sides of vanillin and citrus rind. It will probably need a decade to shed significant sweetness and still be in good shape in 25 years. Armin and his daughter Caroline Diel and an expanded crew brought in their entire 2006 crop in two weeks – less than half the normal time. As at so many addresses, yields were low in consequence of selectivity. This is a very fine vintage at Schlossgut Diel, even if not (as its predecessor was) a great one. Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300