A classic Barbaresco as well as a textbook expression of Nebbiolo, this exceptionally complex, dark ruby/garnet-colored 1998 offers gorgeous aromatics of cedar wood, Chinese black tea, cherries, smoke, and a whiff of creosote. Dense, fleshy, and voluptuous yet structured and brilliantly well-delineated, it will drink beautifully over the next 7-8 years.A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300, Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700, and Estate Wines, Ltd., San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 492-9411