The 2005 Pinot Noir “De Lancellotti Vineyard” comes from a 7 acre parcel owned by Josh Bergstrom’s sister and brother-in-law. It is a more typical 2005, not nearly as fruit-driven as the Shea offering. The wine has a fragrant but slightly brooding nose with elements of smoke, vanilla, cola, black cherry, and blackberry. This is followed by a supple-textured wine with uplifting acidity, a firm structure, and a wide enough band of fruit to provide balance. Give it 5-7 years of further bottle age and drink it through 2025. In a remarkably brief time (the first vintage was 1999), Bergstrom, under the leadership of winemaker Josh Bergstrom, has become one of the quality leaders of the Willamette Valley. All of the estate vineyards are biodynamically farmed and Demeter certified. Tel. (503) 554-0468; www.bergstromwines.com. Also tasted: 2005 Dr. Bergstrom Riesling (90), 2005 Pinot Noir “Bergstrom Vineyard – Whole Cluster Selection” (86?)