More muscular and enveloping than the Preuses, Dauvissat's 2017 Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos unfurls in the glass with aromas of ripe lemons, confit citrus, pastry cream and dried white flowers. On the palate, it's full-bodied, satiny and multidimensional, with a rich, structured but incisive profile and a long, chalky finish. If Les Preuses is the more intellectual of the two grand cru bottlings, Les Clos is the more direct and easy to understand.