Like many wines from this initially tight-knit vintage, the 2010 Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos from Vincent Dauvissat is drinking surprisingly well, unfurling in the glass with notes of honeycomb, lemon oil, wheat toast, mandarin and oystershell, framed by subtly smoky reduction that dissipates with aeration. On the palate, it's full-bodied, concentrated and multidimensional, with considerable mid-palate depth and dimension married with incredible crystalline purity and stony tension. The finish is long and precise.