The outstanding 1995 Pouilly-Fuisse Clos Reyssie Reserve Particuliere offers sweet scents of bananas and jellied white fruits. It is silky-textured, medium-to-full-bodied, and opulently crafted. Layers of mango, passion fruit, mineral and chalk flavors are found in its highly extracted and concentrated core. Projected maturity: 1999-2005. There are two cuvees of the 1995 Clos Reyssie Reserve Particuliere. According to Valette, his estate's US importer prompted him to bottle part of the 1995 prior to its sugars having been completely converted to alcohol (it has over 5 grams of residual sugar per liter) to satisfy US market demand. The cuvee I tasted is the final (dry) product. It will be sold throughout the world and will also be available in the US. As the two cuvees have the same labels, readers in the United States will not be able to visually differentiate between the two. Importer: Kysela Pere et Fils, Fran Kysela, Winchester, VA; tel (540) 722-9228.

Late-harvest Chardonnay. Ripe yet not sweet (only off-dry), full-bodied yet structured, this is exotic, with loads of apricot, peach, quince jam, fresh herb and caramel flavors that surprise the palate. Try with spicy food. Drink now through 2003. 250 cases made. -