The 2017 Brunello di Montalcino opens to dark fruit and savory aromas of Christmas spice and Spanish cedar. The wine has an almost exotic quality, and this seems to come from both the oak and probably the heat of the vintage. Plump cherry and ripe blackberry fold into earthy notes, balsam herb and licorice root. This hot-vintage Brunello offers intensity and softness, but the finish ultimately shows moderate length. This is an accessible, near-term Brunello with some drying tannins.