The 2004 Barolo Santo Stefano di Perno is a dramatic, large-scaled wine packed with vibrant dark fruit, menthol, violets and sweet spices. Fresh floral notes linger on the long finish. This bottling can sometimes come across as somewhat rustic, but in 2004 it is remarkably elegant, all while preserving the qualities of this unique Monforte vineyard. The Santo Stefano di Perno is the under the radar gem in this lineup. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2024. Mauro Mascarello is one of the most fascinating personalities in Piedmont. He is also arguably the longest-tenured active winemaker in the Langhe, having been directly responsible for all aspects of production at his family’s estate since 1970, which makes him an invaluable resource on the traditions of the region. Today’s younger generation of high-end producers speak with great reverence about Mascarello and even more so about his father Gepin who was a legend in these parts. Mascarello was an internationally-renowned producer decades before today’s big names were even making wines under their own labels. Twenty years ago, Mascarello’s signature Barolo Monprivato was one of the most expensive Barolos on the market. Then the new-age style became dominant during the 1990s and the estate languished in perception, but not quality. In recent times Mascarello has enjoyed a resurgence in popularity which is long overdue. Prices have gone up, but the Barolo Monprivato in particular remains a steal relative to other world-class wines. Monprivato is one of the handful of Italian wines than can hold its own with the best being made anywhere in the world. Importer: Doug Polaner, Polaner Selections, Mt. Kisco, NY; tel. (914) 244-0404; The Rare Wine Co., Sonoma, CA; tel. (707) 996-4484

The 2004 Barolo Santo Stefano di Perno is a dramatic, large-scaled wine packed with vibrant dark fruit, menthol, violets and sweet spices. Fresh floral notes linger on the long finish. This bottling can sometimes come across as somewhat rustic, but in 2004 it is remarkably elegant, all while preserving the qualities of this unique Monforte vineyard. The Santo Stefano di Perno is the under the radar gem in this lineup. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2024. Mauro Mascarello is one of the most fascinating personalities in Piedmont. He is also arguably the longest-tenured active winemaker in the Langhe, having been directly responsible for all aspects of production at his family’s estate since 1970, which makes him an invaluable resource on the traditions of the region. Today’s younger generation of high-end producers speak with great reverence about Mascarello and even more so about his father Gepin who was a legend in these parts. Mascarello was an internationally-renowned producer decades before today’s big names were even making wines under their own labels. Twenty years ago, Mascarello’s signature Barolo Monprivato was one of the most expensive Barolos on the market. Then the new-age style became dominant during the 1990s and the estate languished in perception, but not quality. In recent times Mascarello has enjoyed a resurgence in popularity which is long overdue. Prices have gone up, but the Barolo Monprivato in particular remains a steal relative to other world-class wines. Monprivato is one of the handful of Italian wines than can hold its own with the best being made anywhere in the world.Importer: Doug Polaner, Polaner Selections, Mt. Kisco, NY; tel. (914) 244-0404; The Rare Wine Co., Sonoma, CA; tel. (707) 996-4484