Mascarello’s 2003 Barolo Santo Stefano di Perno is superb. It presents gorgeous aromatics along with the essence of dried roses, dried cherries, herbs and spices. Made in a surprisingly seamless style, it possesses an open, forthcoming personality, outstanding length and polished tannins. The big question is whether it will shut down in the bottle. For now it remains sweet, harmonius and impossible to resist, even if it doesn’t give the impression of being especially long-lived. Anticipated maturity: 2007-2018. Mauro Mascarello is one of the few producers who prefers his 2003 Barolos to his 2001s as he finds they have more power and intensity while also maintaining finesse and a sense of classicism. The wines certainly have more power, but I am not sure I would agree they have more finesse. In any event, his 2003 Barolos are among the best of the vintage, in particular the Santo Stefano di Perno and Monprivato. I also tasted the 2003 Ca’ d’ Morissio from barrel a few months ago, and it is shaping up to be a remarkably rich wine very much in keeping with the style of the vintage. Mascarello hasn’t decided when he will release the 2001 Ca’ d’ Morissio, but it, too, is promising, as is his entire range of 2004 Barolos. Importers: Doug Polaner, Polaner Selections, Mt. Kisco, NY; tel. (914) 244-0404, The Rare Wine Co., Sonoma, CA; tel. (707) 996-4484