Attractive background aromas like nutmeg and licorice are taken down a notch by front-running bramble and pickled notes, while the palate is hard, tannic and spunky as it delivers lively cherry, raspberry and chocolate flavors. A good wine with RDD pedigree, but also sort of grabby and rough, with coffee and pepper on the finish.——M.S.(4/1/2009)—— 87