Like so many of his Pinots this vintage, Gambal's 2006 Volnay Santenots Vieilles Vignes reflects his intentions to ferment and extract very gently so as to preserve the sweetness that was present in his fruit but avoid the bitterness of skins and pips that were at best marginally ripe. The result is wine that is itself gently supple, sweetly red-fruited, and fairly light both in color and touch. That said, the finish here shows a really sappy persistence, with invigorating salinity, ginger spice, and fresh fruit skin tartness. Two of five barrels here were new, incidentally, but there is no noticeable oak component. This should be lovely over a 3-4 year period. The 40% of Alex Gambal's acreage and contract fruit that constitutes Pinot Noir faced in principle – like those of other vignerons – greater challenges in 2006 than did his Chardonnay. But I find his results in red more satisfying. (For a report on Gambal's 2006 whites, consult issue 180, and for more about this American ex-pat's negociant operation and methods, readers are referred to issue 171.) The 2006 Pinots here harbor typically between 13 and 13.5% natural alcohol. Lesser appellations in red went to bottle already at ten months, and the rest after around 15 Various regional U.S. importers