Coming from the high elevation Vignots and Noizons sites on the Beaune side of village, Laurent’s 2005 Pommard Vieilles Vignes is meatier in aroma and flavors as well as grainier in texture than his corresponding Beaune. Marrow and soy along with piquantly-concentrated black fruits inform this formidably dense Pinot that will doubtless need several years of bottle age before it will justify re-examination. A Patrick Lesec Selection, Paris Fax 011 33 4 66 37 67 23; Martin Scott Wines, Ltd., Lake Success, NY Tel. (516) 327 0808