When Jean-Luc Thunevin, master garagiste and creator of Saint-Emilion Chateau Valandraud, gets his hands on making a branded Bordeaux wine, it’s worth taking notice. And this Merlot-dominated wine, distributed jointly with Bordeaux negociant Calvet, is the sort of wine that simple Bordeaux should taste like. It is smooth, ripe, concentrated, packed with red berries and attractive, forward fruit flavors, and yet with just the right layer of tannin to make a fine food partner. There is nothing complicated—leave that to the grand chateaux. This is just a great drink. ——R.V.(11/15/2006)—— 86