The 2011 CONTRASTE white, says winemaker Rita Marques, is basically the same blend and process as the 2010. I liked it better, though, as it seemed more laced with minerality, fresher and livelier. I don’t think that impression is merely the difference in age—but also the difference in the vintage. Still, the issue is more stylistic than qualitative, so both should have fans. Beautifully constructed, with a fresh, herbaceous note on the wine that I rather found invigorating (your mileage may differ), this has nice density, although it is a bit more elegant and a bit less brooding than the 2010. It has a lovely, flavorful finish, with the fruit up front. For my money, this is the best value, red or white, in the lineup, combining finesse, purity and solidity. I won’t guarantee it will hold at this level for all of its useful life. Some of what it does best is due to its youthful exuberance, no doubt. So, note that the comments on drinking windows for the 2010 follow through here as well—it should hold nicely, but be conservative until we get there. Drink now-2016.
This relatively young winery has been a family operation with roots going back generations, but Conceito as such was created in 2005. It is run by the latest generation, winemaker Rita Ferreira Marques, who at this point, if not before, should certainly count as one of the most promising newbies on the block in Douro. The reds are increasingly interesting and beautifully balanced, as the ‘09/’10 duo show. The whites provide more evidence of the Douro’s increasingly sophisticated touch with whites.
Importer: Vin de Terra Imports, Inc., Springfield, VA; tel: (703) 731-2058
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