The 2010 CONTRASTE white is an old vines blend of Rabigato, Codega, Codega do Larinho, Gouveio,?Donzelinho Branco, Esgana-Cao and Viosinho, all aged for 10 months in used?barriques?(70% French 30% Caucasus). There is a certain stern note to this due to the oak in the background, but this drinks extremely well, showing earthy nuances and bright acidity. It is not the type of pure, crisp wine that shows completely unaffected, but its flavor profile is not much altered by the oak. It has some solidity and power, making it a fine food matchup. Both of the Contraste brancos are particularly good values in this lineup. I’m always conservative on drinking windows for wines like this, so let’s revisit it in a few years. It certainly has more solidity than normal for a wine in this category, though, and I wouldn’t be surprised if it goes a few years longer. Drink now-2015.
This relatively young winery has been a family operation with roots going back generations, but Conceito as such was created in 2005. It is run by the latest generation, winemaker Rita Ferreira Marques, who at this point, if not before, should certainly count as one of the most promising newbies on the block in Douro. The reds are increasingly interesting and beautifully balanced, as the ‘09/’10 duo show. The whites provide more evidence of the Douro’s increasingly sophisticated touch with whites.
Importer: Vin de Terra Imports, Inc., Springfield, VA; tel: (703) 731-2058
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