The 2017 Contraste Branco is a blend of traditional white grapes like Rabigato, Códega, Códega do Larinho and Arinto from mostly 20-year-old vines at 600 meters, all co-fermented (wild ferment) in a 70/30 mixture of stainless steel and new French oak for eight months. It comes in at 13.3% alcohol. This second wine has become a nice value and consistent overachiever. In a vintage that had its fair share of difficulties, how does it do this year? Granting that they are not all side by side, this year seems relatively rich for this level. It feels full in the mouth. However, it is harder to find the zing and zest I often see. It isn't too far off of the 2016 in style, but it particularly leans to emphasizing fruitiness and roundness as opposed to crispness and precision. It's pretty ripe this year. There are no herbaceous nuances. Overall, this has many merits. I won't be surprised if many prefer this incarnation, but I would've liked just a bit more focus and energy. It is still very good.
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