Lignier’s 2005 Chambolle-Musigny Les Baudes exudes a red fruit, licorice, vanilla and sweet floral-scented perfume. The brightness, purity and sheer pizzaz of fresh fruit on the palate makes this an exception from the more somber, darkly-hued typicity of the vintage. An almost savage tart, pure berry impression confirms the proximity of this site to Bonnes Mares. Speaking of “savage,” that’s how this wine clings with its bright fruit, salty-chalky minerality and bitter herbs. Think of this as Bonnes Mares quality at half the price, and plan on 12-15 years of cellaring.
There is a distressing cloud hanging over this venerable estate because Hubert Lignier and the American widow of his son, Romain, have been unable to agree on pooling their resources, with the result that two sets of 2006s were vinified (and the 2005s may end up being sold under two different labels). The 2005s I tasted had been drawn earlier in the day as approximations to the final blends.
Importer: Rosenthal Wine Merchant, Pine Plains, NY; tel. (800) 910-1990.