Vincent Bitouzet produces a wide range of Volnays, all of them faithfully representing their respective terroirs. The ruby-colored Beaune Cents Vignes offers intense aromas of mocha and jammy red fruits as well as a thick-textured, cherry pie filling and chocolate-flavored, medium-bodied character. This powerful offering (particularly considering it is from a vineyard that generally produces rather light wines) succeeds in marrying its bold jammy flavors with an attractive finesse. Anticipated maturity: Now-2002. As always, ratings with a score in parentheses indicate the wine was tasted from cask, not bottle. Importer: Neil Rosenthal, Select Vineyards, Shekomeko, NY; Tel (800) 910-1990.

Vincent Bitouzet produces a wide range of Volnays, all of them faithfully representing their respective terroirs. The ruby-colored Beaune Cents Vignes offers intense aromas of mocha and jammy red fruits as well as a thick-textured, cherry pie filling and chocolate-flavored, medium-bodied character. This powerful offering (particularly considering it is from a vineyard that generally produces rather light wines) succeeds in marrying its bold jammy flavors with an attractive finesse. Anticipated maturity: Now-2002.As always, ratings with a score in parentheses indicate the wine was tasted from cask, not bottle.Importer: Neil Rosenthal, Select Vineyards, Shekomeko, NY; Tel (800) 910-1990.