As always, Ambroise’s parcel of Corton le Rognet (red) was the first fruit picked in 2003 (on August 25th). Mocha, blackberries, cassis, and hints of leather can be found in its aromatics. Though served at the same temperature as all the others (deep in the cellars), this wine came across as substantially cooler. Its structured character, packed with tannin, displays cassis, black as well as red cherries, herbs, chocolate, and minerals. A powerful effort, it will require patience (as Ambroise’s Corton’s typically do). Drink it between 2010 and 2018. Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 832-9083