If you are young, have fine genes for longevity, and exercise seriously, you may want to splurge on a few bottles of Ambroise's 1990 Corton-Le Rogets. The color is black. After coaxing, the nose reveals scents of black-cherries, minerals, and truffles. In the mouth, the wine is nearly too extracted. There are gobs of fruit and considerable tannin. A minimum of 10 years of cellaring will be required for this full-bodied, massively constituted red burgundy to reach its apogee. For those readers who have refused to buy burgundy because it lacked richness, weight, and aging potential - here's your chance. Anticipated maturity: 2000-2025 .Ambroise's 1990s are the best wines he has yet produced. Moreover, he is finally throwing out his filters, putting in the bottle exactly what was tasted from the barrel.Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC.