Those readers who do not mind some rusticity in their Burgundies will adore the 2001 Corton Le Rognet. This dark ruby-colored wine boasts outstanding concentration and depth. Loads of tar-laced black fruits can be discerned in its medium-bodied, tight, tannin-packed character. If, as often happens with Ambroise’s offerings, it softens, expands, and becomes more civilized after bottling, it could ultimately merit an even higher score. Projected maturity: 2006-2012. Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 832-9083