Pierre Morey's en metayage Batard-Montrachet is produced from a parcel that runs parallel to the small road that separates Batard-Montrachet from Montrachet. All its vines are between 15 and 35 meters from Montrachet, within the Puligny-Montrachet commune, but on the Chassagne end of the vineyard. The 1996 displays an extravagant nose of stones and gravel as well as a powerful, exquisitely rich and broad character. This full-bodied, amazingly deep, ripe, complex, and concentrated wine is filled with candied peaches, minerals, hazelnuts, anise, and toasty oak nuances. Its thick and oily flavor profile is perfectly balanced by a lively and slightly tangy acidity. This stunner will be at its best from 2004 to 2012. The rating, with the range of scores in parentheses, indicates the wine was tasted from cask, not bottle. A Becky Wasserman Selection (Le Serbet) French Fax 011-33-3-80242970, and Atherton Wine Imports, Atherton, CA; tel (415) 328-6639.