A wine I’ve had more than a case of, sometimes with irregular results, the 2003 Chateauneuf du Pape Vieilles Vignes was drinking about as good as it gets on this occasion. As usual, it’s made in a deeper, richer style than the Chaupin and offers thrilling texture, a smoking mid-palate and nothing but gorgeous Grenache fruit on the finish. Loaded with notions of blackberry liqueur, kirsch, fruit cake and spice, enjoy this knockout effort over the coming 2-4 years or so. One of the benchmark estates in the Rhone Valley, Domaine de la Janasse is run by the talented brother/sister pair of Christophe and Isabelle Sabon. Located in the northeastern portion of the region, near Courthezon, they produce an incredible range of wines, from their Vin de Pays, to their Cotes du Rones and world-class Chateauneuf du Papes, all of which are noteworthy. For this tasting, we started with the 1990s and went up through their 2007s. At this point, the ‘98s through the 2004s are all in varying degrees of full maturity, and drinking brilliantly. In addition, it’s also worth pointing out that these wines have the fruit and texture to dish out immense pleasure in their youth, so don’t be afraid to crack these new releases either. Both of the 1999s were drinking beautifully, and are up near the top of the vintage. Moving to the 2000s, I found that from this point forward, the wines started to show more freshness and vibrancy. Looking specifically at this vintage, these are still mature wines, yet they’re drinking beautifully. Importer: Eric Solomon, European Selections, Charlotte, NC; tel. (704) 358-1565

One of the vintage’s most compelling wines, the huge, dense purple-colored 2003 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee Vieilles Vignes offers aromas of creme de cassis, creosote, and flowers along with immense concentration, body, and tannin. The finish is reminiscent of a first-growth Bordeaux, meaning it is well-delineated and tannic. Cellar it for 4-5 years and consume it over the following two decades. Importer: Eric Solomon, European Cellars, Charlotte, NC; tel. (704) 358-1565

From four parcels of vines, all giving different characteristics to the final blend. This is a beautifully structured wine, almost charming at first, and then packing an intense mouthful of fresh, balanced and dangerously delicious fruit. There is a touch of new wood, but the fruit is the star of this great wine. Imported by European Cellars. ——R.V.(12/31/2005)—— 96