The 1999 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee Vieilles Vignes has a lot more left in the tank than the regular cuvée. The acids are still fresh, but there's more fruit and less decay evident. Full-bodied, rich and velvety, with waves of black cherries and plums, it shows no signs of drying out or of being overripe.

The floral (violets?)-scented, structured, backward, powerful 1999 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee Vieilles Vignes boasts a dense purple color. Gorgeously rich flavors on the attack are followed by a heady, muscular, long wine requiring 2-3 years of cellaring; it should age for two decades. Importer: Eric Solomon, European Cellars, Charlotte, NC; tel. (704) 358-1565