From 70- to 80-year-old vines, the 2017 Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Kabinett is clear, bright, cool and flinty on the crystalline and reductive nose. The attack on the palate is racy-piquant, and the wine reveals lush and delicate fruit with lingering salinity and a frisky character as well as serious ambitions. The wine is slightly creamy (though not as much as the Juffer #4) yet tensioned, vital and highly stimulating, but it needs some years to soften its playful aggressions. Tasted in March 2019.