A cheesy, yeasty “Mosel stink” on the nose of Richter’s 2009 Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Kabinett did not entirely blow off during the time I could devote to it, but the rest of the scents and flavors that emerged were virtuous: bright lemon; pungent spice; and suggestions of salt and stone, all in a buoyant and ultimately highly refreshing context. A return visit will hopefully find the nose cleared up here, and I suspect the wine has at least 12-15 year potential. The plot in question – for more about whose peculiarities, consult other reports I have written on Richter’s wines – has an excellent track record in his hands. While yields were down significantly in Muhlheim and Brauneberg – particularly due to peronospora – and sorting almost universally required, Dirk Richter reports that his overall 2009 crop was above- average volume, though he acknowledges that due to the need for relatively intensive spraying against fungal pests, both its ripening and the evolution of the resulting wines were retarded. Kabinetts were not picked until the last days of October; acid levels of most wines are well above vintage average; there was little Auslese; and some wines (Kabinetts, as it happens!) had not yet bottled when I visited in September. Richer – whose Rieslings from top sites continue to be bargain-priced – has just taken over a section of Erdener Treppchen that is in the family of his cellarmaster, who has no heirs. While there were still stocks of some 2008 vintage Rieslings available when I visited in September, the 2009 Richter Pinot Blanc had already been sold out without remainder, so I did not get chance to taste that of-late often promising bottling.Importer: Langdon-Shiverick Cleveland, OH; tel. (216) 861-6800

A minerally style, with a fresh allure to the peach, tangerine, apple and citrus flavors. Quite zesty and juicy on the sleek, spicy finish. Drink now through 2022. 650 cases made.??–KM??Region: Germany / Mosel Select to Add