The 2004 Aragone (a blend of 40% Sangiovese, 25% Alicante, 25% Syrah and 10% Carignan aged in 500 liter barrels) is an explosive wine. It bursts from the glass with a brooding, almost menacing nose of tar and scorched earth. Deceptively medium-bodied, it presents an exciting array of ripe dark fruit, toasted oak, spices and earthy flavors on a powerful, richly structured frame that closes with enough freshness to make me think that it will develop additional complexity in the bottle. It is a terrific effort from this young estate. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2018. This new estate is owned by New York restaurateurs Lidia Bastianich, Joe Bastianich and Mario Batali. “We noticed that the international varieties that are more common in the zone such as Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon don’t do especially well here as the climate is especially warm and very dry, much like you might find in southern France or Spain.” says Joe Bastianich. “We want to make a wine that captures some of those Mediterranean characteristics, like the aromatics of a great Chateauneuf du Pape. With Aragone we aim to make a wine that is powerful and complex, but without being overly heavy and concentrated. The Morellino is, of course, our entry-level wine. Even though it sees nine months in oak our Morellino is meant to be an expression that is faithful to the region, but that is also affordable and easy to drink.” Importer: Dark Star Imports, New York, NY; tel. (646) 312-8921