The 1997 Taurasi reveals notes of melted road tar, black cherries, chocolate, leather, and spice box. Medium-bodied and husky, with some rusticity, it will drink well for 3-4 years.A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300, Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700, and Estate Wines, Ltd., San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 492-9411

We loved this wine’s complex and distinctive aromas of black olive, mushrooms, smoked meat and black pepper. We didn’t love the ponderous, low-acid mouthfeel and intense tannins. The result? A middle-of-the-road rating for a wine that consumers may either love or hate.——W.E.(5/1/2002)—— 84