Glantenay’s 2008 Volnay originates in a range of parcels of different vine age, two of which he reports are premier cru, but too small to merit vinifying as such. Cassis, blueberry, buddleia, and crushed stone in the nose lead to a palate of pure and intense berry fruit, persisting with hints of chalk and humus substrate. The tannins here are fine-grained and I suspect the wine will drink well for at least the next 6-8 years. Young Thierry Glantenay – whom I met for the first time this March – has the luck to have inherited old vines acquired or planted by his grandfather in some of the most prestigious sites of Volnay, Pommard, and Puligny, and is applying to them evident care and intelligence, given which facts it isn’t surprising – even though it was news to me – that his cellar is a superb source of Burgundy. Glantenay’s finished 2008s are in the low-13s of alcoholic percentage, having for the most part been boosted by one-half to one degree. All of them were in tank when I tasted, and none were due to be filtered at bottling, although the village Volnay, Caillerets, and Rugiens had been lightly “pre-filtered” to deal with what Glantenay deemed excess turbidity. Importer: Weygandt-Metzler, Unionville , PA; tel. (610) 486-0800