As with many of the wines of Sandrone, it is easy to be beguiled by the fruit, and miss the underlying structure holding it together. This is true of the Dolcetto, where the wine initially shows plenty of dark fruit and a touch of mint, but gains a spicy complexity as it takes in air. The wine will benefit from a couple of years in the bottle, but is delicious now.——M.G.(12/31/2007)—— 90