The 2007 Catarratto is made in rounder, softer style than the Grillo. Here the fruit is decidedly riper, as attractive notes of yellow peaches intermingled with subtle notes of earthiness and minerals emerge from the glass. This tasty white is best enjoyed over the near-term. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2009. Feudo Montoni is a terrific source for wines that capture the qualities of Sicily’s native varieties. Importer: Selected Estates of Europe, Mamaroneck, NY; tel. (914) 698-7202

This fresh, easy white (made from Catarratto grapes grown in central Sicily) offers notes of yellow peach, mineral, dried sage and exotic fruit. It’s a simple, no-fuss wine that would pair with light salads or appetizers.——M.L.(11/1/2008)—— 85