The 2008 Aix is a blend of 61% Syrah, 34% Cabernet Sauvignon, with the balance Mourvedre and Cinsault sourced almost entirely from the Red Mountain AVA. Expressive aromas of smoke, game, bacon, pepper, garrigue, blueberry, and blackberry lead to a round, succulent, impeccably balanced, lengthy wine. In the scheme of things it is a terrific value. Doyenne is DeLille’s sister label used for Rhone-style wines. This year’s releases include two white wines. www.delillecellars.com

The blend is 61% Syrah, 34% Cabernet Sauvignon, 4% Mourvedre and 1% Cinsault. The stiffest, most tannic and compact of the Doyenne reds, the Aix hits a high point in 2008. The Syrah brings berry, citrus and a savory note; the Cabernet adds muscle and cassis. Tannins are hard, polished, almost shiny. There is a lot of depth and power here, and it needs decanting or additional cellaring to show all of its strengths.——P.G.(7/1/2011)—— 92