The 2006 Aix is a blend of 64.5% Syrah and 35.5% Cabernet Sauvignon from several Red Mountain Vineyards. Purple-colored, the bouquet displays aromas of toast, underbrush, smoked meat, violets, blueberry, and black currant. Elegant and smooth-textured, it is nicely balanced with savory fruit, lively acidity, and enough structure to evolve for 1-2 years. This Bandol-like wine will deliver pleasurable drinking from 2011 to 2018. Doyenne is the sister label of DeLille Cellars and is used for Rhone varieties. www.delillecellars.com

The Aix is two thirds Syrah and one third Cabernet Sauvignon, scented with mint and herb, with tart red fruit. The Syrah tastes of mineral and graphite rather than earth or cured meat, and the wine remains quite hard and tightly wound.——P.G.(11/1/2009)—— 89