The 2010 Syrah White Hawk is one of the riper, more textured and layered efforts in the lineup. Possessing notions of plum and cherry pit-like fruits, violets and smoke, it’s medium to full-bodied, nicely concentrated and has bright, yet integrated acidity. It too needs short-term cellaring, and will have over a decade of longevity.
This was a mammoth tasting with winemaker Adam Tolmach and assistant Fabien Castel. While I had a number of these shipped to my office in Colorado (where I was able to follow the wines for multiple days), there were still upward of 30 bottles to taste through when I showed up at the estate. Adam continues to pull in his harvest dates, and in a number of cases, has released two cuvees from each vineyard, one harvested early (the Special Bottling) and one harvested later, which is still on the early edge. I have mixed feelings about the new style here, and while these early pick dates give his wines beautiful tension, acidity and energy, it comes at the expense of texture and richness, and the wines have a sappy, resinous, if not green, character that won’t be for everyone. Nevertheless, there are certainly some outstanding wines here.
Tel. (805) 649-1674; www.ojaivineyard.com
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