The 2006 Chablis Fourchaume offers a ripe and appealingly refreshing meld of lime, grapefruit, gooseberry, yellow plum, and honey. Bitter-sweet notes of citrus peel accentuate a slightly sweet-sour (gooseberry preserve) cast found in other Bessin 2006s as well, but there is a good underlying sense of chalky minerality and a solid finish. This should prove to be a useful wine worth following for at least 3-4 years. Jean-Claude Bessin bottles about two-thirds of the fruit from his nearly 30 acres of vines, vinifying the majority in tank, and some in barrels of mixed sizes. Most of Bessin’s vines are quite old, and the fruit of young vines – or any other fruit harvested by machine – is sold off to negociants.Importer: Kysela Pere et Fils, Ltd., Winchester, VA; tel. (540) 722-9228