The 1994 Chablis Fourchaume displays an explosive nose of cold steel, buttery fruit, and minerals. Powerful and concentrated, with medium to full body, and nearly outstanding density and ripeness, this is a gloriously fresh, lively Chablis that should drink well for 3-4 years. Readers looking for less oak in their wines are well-advised to give this Chablis a try.Only 2,800 cases of Chablis are produced each year at this small domaine, which also produces a powerful Chablis Valmur and regular cuvee of generic Chablis. I did not taste the latter two wines in the 1994 vintages. All the wines are put through full malolactic fermentation, and, with the exception of the Valmur, they are vinified and aged in tank. They are brilliant examples of a fresh, lively, fruit-driven style of Chablis that has not been influenced by wood aging. Readers familiar with the exceptional tank-fermented and aged Chablis of Domaine Louis Michel will enthusiastically approve of these wines.Importer: Kysela Pere et Fils, Winchester, VA; tel (540) 888-7939
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