The blockbuster 2003 Cote Rotie La Landonne (a 2,700-bottle cuvee of 100% Syrah) is a wine for the ages. Its dense purple hue is followed by gorgeous aromas of graphite, scorched earth, bacon fat, blackberries, blueberries, figs, and espresso roast. Deep, full-bodied, tannic, and backward, it will benefit from 4-6 years of bottle age, and should last for two decades. Importer: Maison Marques et Domaines, Oakland, CA; tel. (510) 587-2000

I liked a bottle of this more last year and found it more fresh and lively; nevertheless, the 2003 Cote Rotie la Landonne was still beautiful on this occasion and gave up lots of mulled fruits, chocolate, licorice and dried herbs. Full-bodied, nicely concentrated and structured, it has a savory edge to it aromatics and tannin profile that makes me think it's best consumed over the coming decade.

Extremely dark, with blackberry and fig fruit, but remarkably lush and pure, with mineral, coffee and mocha notes gliding along as well. All the exotic fruit notes then reverberate through the finish, where the minerality provides a suave backdrop. Drink now through 2020. 245 cases made. -JM