The gamey side of this appellation may come out over time, although I would recommend drinking this – like most of Duboeuf’s 2010s – within the next couple of years. Duboeuf’s perennially prominently fruity 2010 Morgon J. E. Descombes – for some reason now labeled this way rather than as “Domaine Jean Descombes” – offers an exuberant abundance of dark cherry and boysenberry garlanded in wisteria, with welcome measures of refreshing primary juiciness and saliva-liberating salinity. At the same time, there is a sense of fine underlying tannin and a bit of extraneous bitterness in the finish, but I suspect this will be worth following for at least 3-4 years. George Duboeuf and his estate-collaborators – for further general comments on whom consult my issue 190 report – harvested from mid-September into the first week of October and pronounced themselves reasonably satisfied with the size of their crop as well as its quality. Most of the fruit came in at between 12-12.5% alcohol, with only a small share being chaptalized. And while the manner of extraction typically practiced chez Duboeuf strikes me as serving for rather uniformly deep colors, Duboeuf remarked that the 2010s colored with particular, and surprising, ease. The percentage of wines bottled at the time of my June visit was, predictably, considerably higher than had been the case for the 2009s at the same point on the calendar. Observing conventions established in the aforementioned previous report, I have made reference to aging potential only for any wines that I expect might be worth following for longer than a couple of years, and where I have identified a wine solely by appellation, it represents a so-called “Selections Georges Duboeuf” cuvee, adorned with his company’s signature flower labels. I also tasted on this occasion several late-released, wooded “prestige” bottlings – rendered in 1,000-2,500 volumes – which however were not destined to appear in U.S. markets.Importer: William Deutsch & Son Ltd., White Plains, NY; tel. (914) 251-9463

Impressively powerful, structured wine that has spice, richness, plenty of firm tannins as well as a punch of sweet plum and red cherry flavors. There is an edge of acidity that suggests aging potential. ——R.V.(10/1/2011)—— 90