Georges Duboeuf Domaine Jean Ernest Descombes, Morgon, France

杜寶夫酒莊讓歐尼德貢布紅葡萄酒

點(diǎn)擊次數(shù)：12070

There are all of 2,200 cases of the 2008 Morgon Jean Descombes, which represents a perennially popular benchmark for its appellation, not to mention value. This year, black raspberry and peach preserves rush from the glass and envelop the palate with silken textural allure and an almost liqueur-like presence. Yet for all of its suggestions of sweetness, this is also more than bright enough to refresh, and grips impressively with finishing complexity of animal nuances and floral inhalation. Expect this to be worth several years of cellaring – not that one would want to miss out on its youthful charms. This wine, incidentally, is in fact domaine bottled, but has been marketed for many years exclusively by DuBoeuf, with their name also appearing prominently on the label. Consistent in style and amazingly low in price, the myriad Beaujolais bottlings of George Duboeuf continue to represent outstanding values in the American marketplace. In April, I tasted nearly their entire range of 2008s, with few exceptions, already bottled. The overwhelming majority of these made my cut as value recommendations, including some – from among that wide range of domaines with which Duboeuf has long-standing commercial relationships – that might not show up in the U.S. market. The so-called “Selections Georges Duboeuf” cuvees continue to bear a variation on this negociant’s signature flower labels, but to save space in our print edition, please assume that any wine not otherwise designated refers to a member of that class. In general, I have preferred DuBoeuf’s Beaujolais bottlings in their youth, with a few of the domaine crus having exhibited with bottle age a complexity concomitant with the effort to cellar them, and where not otherwise noted, my recommendation is to enjoy the following wines over the next couple of years. The Duboeuf 2008 Beaujolais-Villages – at 30,000 cases, representing their largest single lot of wine, and twice the volume of their appellation Beaujolais – was a bit green and rustic by comparison, and multiple bottles of a Chateau des Vierres bottling were oddly inexpressive and drying on the occasion of my visit. Duboeuf’s flower label 2008 Fleurie is another of their wines of this vintage that is atypically austere, and in this instance a bit much so, and their 2008 Fleurie Domaine des Quatre Vents and Fleurie Chateau des Bachelards were a bit drying and rough under the influence both of its barrel component and its very recent bottling when I tasted it.Importer: William Deutsch & Son Ltd., White Plains, NY; tel. (914) 251-9463