Geiben's 2009 Kaseler Nies'chen Riesling Kabinett achieves the combination of clarity, lift, and refreshment that eludes too many of his wines of this vintage. But then, come to think of it, this particular Karlsmuhle bottling enjoys one of the longest track records for success of any Riesling in the greater Mosel realm. Despite 9.5% alcohol (a whole degree higher than the corresponding Mauerchen) and high residual sugar (proof of the sheer ripeness of raw material) this conveys a sense of delicacy to compliment its refreshment accompanied by a sense of sweetness sufficiently restrained to permit invigoratingly saline and distinctively wet stone notes to ring clearly and for the wine to be well worth putting to use at table even in its youth. Apple and honeydew melon are wreathed in honeysuckle and – in addition to the aforementioned mineral dimensions – underlain by rich nut oils and a savory suggestion of meat broth. This should remain delightful for at least a dozen years; though I'm not convinced it has the inner strength for quite the longevity that can sometimes be achieved with Ruwer Kabinett and with this bottling in particular. Young Kai Hausen – who briefly worked at the Karthauserhof as well as with Markus Molitor – is now Peter Geiben's cellarmaster. Unfortunately, neither of them was able to meet with me for this year's tasting of a collection that, like its predecessor, was selectively excellent but unambitious as regards nobly sweet wines, which had been largely missing in 2008 and proved relatively unimpressive this year. (The team essayed a 2009 Eiswein, but Geiben's partner and business manager Sylvia Wells reported to me that it ate up so much sulfur they could not consider releasing it.)Peter Geiben's long-standing collaboration with importer Terry Theise has come to an end, and there is as yet no new importer representing these wines.
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