The Karlsmuhle 2006 Kaseler Nies’chen Riesling Kabinett is redolent of red currant, grapefruit, and sassafras. Crystal clear on the palate, reflecting stony, smoky, saline mineral notes, this preserves juicy, refreshingly tart red berry and citrus in its vigorous finish with pungent hints of smoke and brown spice. Enjoy it over the next two decades. Compared with this, the drier-tasting Mauerchen Kabinett is “cool” and restrained, emphasizing the floral and what terroirists will be want to call a more blue- (rather than red-) slated tone. We were nearly done by October,” says Peter Geiben, when asked how soon after the Great Rain he commenced picking. The Ruwer was indeed different this year (again, how ironic – and how stupid – for it to have recently officially been conflated with the Saar and Mosel). But this early harvest unfortunately reflects conditions in September that were more problematic than those on the Middle Mosel. “When you got up into the vineyards in September you could see what was coming,” adds Geiben, and he didn’t like what he saw. “And from the 3rd of October on, it was non-stop, morning through evening to get finished by the 6th,” the earliest completion of harvest here since 1976.Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel (516) 677-9300

Full of flavors that lean toward lime, nectarine and grapefruit, this white is intense and juicy. A bit compact, but should relax and expand with time. Drink now through 2020. 131 cases imported.??–BS??Region: Germany / Mosel-Saar-Ruwer Select to Add