Geiben's 2007 Kaseler Nies-chen Riesling Kabinett leads with smoky pungency of sage, lemon zest, red currant and crushed stone; then delivers expansive, succulent ripe melon, berry and citrus on a silken-textured palate of striking levity and vivacity; and finishes infectiously, with superb transparency to underlying nuances and an ideal balance of acids and residual sugar. As with so many of the best wines labeled -Kabinett- over the past 15 years (2008 will be different!) one could argue that this is more Spatlese, but it represents an outstanding value that will be worth returning to for the next decade. Peter Geiben began picking already October 4th, but did not finish until the 25th. Results were a bit disappointing at the dry end of the spectrum, (a deficiency redressed by his 2008s, incidentally), and more impressive where significant residual sugar came into play.Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel (516) 677-9300