The 2007 Gloria de Ostatu represents the top of the “singular” range. This wine started as a joint venture with Hubert de Bouard from Angelus fame, because he was interested in exploring the potential of the old Tempranillo vines in Rioja. It was first produced in the year 2000, following the production methods of a Bordeaux Grand Cru. Even though de Bouard is not directly involved anymore in the production, they keep in contact and he still buys the barrels for the wine for them. They keep the 100% new oak aging for 18-20 months but they have gradually been adjusting the extraction and fermentation methods. The wine is assembled from Tempranillo grapes selected from their three best vineyards between 60 and 80 years of age, which in 2007 were harvested on October 23. The wine has a strong lactic note in the nose (malolactic fermentation is always carried out in barrel), and faint notes of antique shop, noble woods, balsamic overtones of incense with a core of ripe black fruit. The medium to full-bodied palate shows medium acidity, some grainy tannins and very ripe fruit flavors especially for a cold, late and difficult vintage. A big, powerful modern Rioja. Only 5,000 bottles were produced in 2007. Drink 2014-2019.
Ostatu is a family winery from the Alavesa zone of Rioja created in 1960 by the Saenz de Samaniego family who have a long tradition as grape growers since the 16th century to craft wines from their 34 hectares of vineyards in Samaniego, Leza y Laguardia and a further 15 hectares they work on behalf of other members of the family. They explained to me that they have two lines of wines, one they like to describe as “sensible” where they want to make traditional wines through blending grapes from different vineyards, and the “singular” one, which are single vineyard. The two ranges have different-styled labels which are quite easy to identify. They currently produce nine different wines, of which I tasted six, all of them highly recommended, and all of them sold at sensible prices.
Imported by De Maison Selections, Chapel Hill, NC; tel. (919) 933-4245; www.demaisonselections.com
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