Roagna’s 2004 Barolo La Rocca e la Pira is awesome. A sensual, layered Barolo, the wine emerges from the glass with gorgeous inner perfume, power and depth in its dark fruit. The aromatics seem to be developing faster than the fruit and structural components. My impression is that this won’t be a terribly long-lived wine, but it should drink well to age twenty or so. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2024. Importer: Louis/Dressner Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 334-8191