The 2006 Reserva is aged for 18 months in oak casks. It has an elevated licorice and mint bouquet with just a touch of volatility, although it is nothing to get worried about. The palate is well-balanced with leathery dark berry fruit, white pepper and a “correct” classic dry finish that is long and satisfying. This is honest and well-crafted. Drink now-2017. I tasted a trio of very commendable wines from Bodegas Montecillo. The winery was founded in 1874 in Fuenmayor and is presently owned by the Osborne Group. Winemaker Maria Martinez is at the helm and should be commended for producing exemplary wines that speak of their place with great clarity. Importer: William Deutsch & Sons, White Plains, NY; tel. (914) 251-WINE, and Hayman, Barwell & Jones (UK)

Full and fruity, but with an aromatic pinch of latex and rubber that subsides with airing. Feels healthy on the palate, with good grip and weight to bolster raspberry, plum, cola and spice flavors. In golfing terms, it splits the fairway; it’s perfectly good and should generate no complaints.——M.S.(4/1/2012)—— 88