Generous fruit, acidity and structure all come together beautifully in the 2009 Pinot Noir Cargasacchi. It is arguably the most complex of the 2009 Pinots here. Plush dark cherries, plums, mint and licorice are some of the nuances that flow in this powerful, intense wine. Layers of sweet inner perfume add complexity on the virile finish. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2019. No one has done more to carry the banner for the Santa Rita Hills than Greg Brewer and Steve Clifton. Both together at Brewer-Clifton and separately in their other projects, Brewer and Clifton consistently deliver delicious wines that are also deeply thought provoking with regards to the potential these vineyard sites hold. The Pinots in particular are compelling. The 2009 Pinots saw a seven day cold soak and fermentations that lasted a total of 35-40 days, with 100% stems.Tel. (805) 735-9184; Fax (805) 735-9185; www.brewerclifton.com

At 14.7% alcohol, the 2009 comes across as a tightly-knit, narrowly-constructed effort with excellent notes of ripe, sweet and sour cherries, pomegranates and underbrush. Although medium-bodied and long with good acidity, it is never as expressive as its siblings. Drink it up.