I tasted both barrels of the 2010 Bonnes-Mares. The first, from a parcel on the Morey border, reveals a cool, mineral-infused expression of fruit. The second, from a parcel in the heart of the vineyard, is pure Chambolle in its sexiness and silkiness. The blend is much more interesting and complete than the two separate wines. Sweet floral notes, menthol and spices are woven together on the effortless, gracious finish. Anticipated maturity: 2025-2045. It is always fascinating to settle in for a tasting with proprietor Mounir Saouma. With the exception of Jadot, I can-t think of a single maison that draws across such a broad range of top vineyards. When taken together, the whites and reds provide insight to the performance of dozens of the finest sites in the region. Saouma is not much for comparisons when discussing 2010, saying quite simply, -2010 is 2010.- The vintage was not without some disappointments. Because of the miniscule yields, there is no 2010 Romanee St. Vivant or Richebourg. As always, these are some of the most unmanipulated wines being made in Burgundy. When I tasted the 2010s in November 2011, the wines had never been sulphured or racked. Saouma had just finished bottling his 2009s (a vintage many bottled on the early side) in October 2011!Importers: Vintus LLC, Pleasantville, NY; tel. (914) 769-3000, Atherton Imports, Menlo Park, CA; tel. (650) 328-6639
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