The 2007 Brunello di Montalcino Pietranera offers up incense, tar, grilled herbs and a host of dark, smoky aromas. This is a decidedly virile Barolo that shows the more masculine side of Sangiovese. Readers will need to give the 2007 at least another year or two in bottle, although I doubt the firm tannins will ever melt away. The 2007 Pietranera spent 35 months in French oak, which is probably a bit too long for the wine’s structure. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2024. Importer: Soilair Selection, New York, NY; tel. (646) 244-4922