The Lemelson 2011 Pinot Noir Meyer Vineyard reflects a western exposure planted to Dijon Clone 777 and picked at higher brix than that from its cooler Powell Hill slope, but matured in the same 50% new oak. Sandalwood; vanilla and lightly-caramelized resin from barrel; game; ash and humus, all vie for attention with red raspberry and pomegranate fruit. There is a core of juicy brightness – what the wine’s author refers to as “citric” – that serves for sheer refreshment, and it might well harmonize (or compete more synergistically) with the gamey and oaky elements as the wine matures. Licorice, vanilla, and caramel lend a confectionary cast to the finish, setting-up tension with the fresh fruit acidity, but by no means eclipsing the other aspects of this Pinot’s undeniable complexity. I would want to revisit it in a year or so before attempting to prognosticate as to its longer-term potential. Eric Lemelson – about whom, and about whose vineyards, I wrote extensively in issue 202 – testified that his 2011 fruit had thinner skins, less spice, and more prominent acidity (he said “citrus”) than that of 2010. But he claims to have chaptalized “almost not at all” in 2011, while still reaching 13-13.5% alcohol in his finished Pinots, picked in the third week of October. I’m beginning to associate my tepid response to many of Lemelson’s Pinots with the tendency of both youthful gaminess and their typically 50% new wood (the balance often second-fill) to encroach on or slightly dry-out their fruit. Each of the three Pinots here reviewed in their 2011 instantiations is monoclonal; but I certainly wouldn’t suggest that they lack for complexity. Tel. (503) 852-6619